Planers usually encounter snipes when the board’s trailing end is elevated once it enters the cutting area. The snipe’s length normally corresponds to the specific distance in between the cutter head and the feed rollers. In cases when the board is not supported, this can tilt beneath the rollers. There are different ways for you to stop or avoid this problem. You may run the wood strips along the sides of the planed board or size the wood pieces long and take out or cut off the snipe.
Things You’ll Need
Side strips for work piece
Work piece (wooden board for cutting)
Check the side strips that you are using and make sure that they are at least an inch wide, with the same thickness as your work piece. Get the distance in between the cutterhead of the planer and any of its drive rollers to get the strips’ minimum length. Use your measuring tape to get these dimensions.
Add an inch to the distance of the cutterhead and the drive roller and multiply this number by 2. Add the product to your work piece’s length.
Cut the side strips according to the measurements that you got and attach these at the sides of your work piece, making sure they are centered and secured with wood glue. In the process of planning the strips, the strips will reach your cutterhead first and sustain possible causes of snipe. These strips are held flat under your outfeed roller at the same time the work pieces reach the knives. This will help eliminate any unsupported lift that leads to lead-end snipes. Once the board exits the cutter, the tail of the strips is secured by its infeed rollers, preventing the back part of your work piece from tipping up your cutterhead.
Highland Woodworking: Understanding Snipe
Fine Woodworking: How to Get Around Planer Snipe
New Woodworker: Controlling Planer Snipe